When we feel a soft, supple fabric, we rarely realize that its story begins with one of the most underestimated steps in the production process: carding. In this phase, fibres are transformed into an even, airy sliver.
The perfect basis for strong, high-quality yarn.
In our spinning mill, this process is running at full speed, under the watchful eye of professionals like Mohamed. With knowledge, precision and passion, he ensures that every fibre falls into place. We spoke to him about the technical craftsmanship, working with recycled materials and the dynamics of the spinning mill.
"You can't see it, but a lot is going on inside"
A carding machine is fully enclosed. You can hardly see what's happening on the inside. Can you briefly explain the carding process?
Mohamed: Everything starts at the bale opener, where compressed bales are being opened. An automatic gripper arm picks fibres from the bales and places them on a conveyor belt. The fibres are blown loose via an air system and led to the right card.
In the card itself, the more delicate work begins. The fibres are fed in slowly through a series of rollers. Large cylinders with thousands of fine metal pins comb the fibres at varying speeds. What used to be a chaotic mass is gradually transformed into a light, uniform web.
In the final step, that thin, almost transparent web is guided through a funnel. Forming what we call a card sliver. A loose strand of fibres ready for the next stage in spinning.
"A good sliver is the key to a good end product"
What is the goal of carding?
Mohamed: Fibres are compressed under tremendous pressure when they're packed into bales, so the first thing we need to do is separate them. We do that in two ways: first, by blowing them loose with air, and second, to put it simply, by combing them.
The main goal is to bring order to the fibres and separate them from each other. Besides aligning the fibres, the carding machine also removes impurities and fibres that are too short. It's a step-by-step process that runs along the full length of the machine.
The card sliver we get at the end needs to have a smooth, consistent structure. Without it, spinning can't continue properly. Or better yet: without a good sliver, you'll never get a strong yarn or a quality fabric. It all starts with that very first result.
Technical craftsmanship and variety
What makes your work on the card so interesting?
Mohamed: There is a lot involved. There are thirty-one carding machines in our spinning mill. Depending on the type of raw material; whether that's recycled cotton, wool, viscose or a blend. We must set the machines differently every time.
I now know very well which material runs best on which machine. We fine-tune everything: from rotation speeds to the tension and especially the garnitures, those are the pins on the rollers. They wear down over time and need to be replaced, as they directly affect how well the fibres are combed.
It's a varied job. Sometimes I'm busy with precise adjustments, sometimes with testing or consulting with the mechanics. You have to make sure the sliver has the right thickness and ideal weight. The entire next phase of the spinning process depends on the output from the carding machine. That's why we test the slivers several times a day. For consistency and strength.
"Testing is investing in the future"
What is it like to work with recycled materials? Are they more difficult to process?
Mohamed: In the beginning, yes. Especially during the testing phase. Recycled fibres, depending on the recycling method of course, are often shorter and less homogeneous than virgin fibres. This can sometimes lead to breakages or irregularities. But honestly, that also happens with new materials we haven't worked with before.
Every new raw material comes with a learning curve.
We always start at a lower speed and experiment with different settings until we find the right combination. Once we've reached our cruising speed, the process runs smoothly. By now, we've built up a lot of experience with different types of recycled fibres. From post-consumer textiles to post-production waste.
What I find important is that we keep doing this testing in-house and use the results to develop new products for the market. Recycled materials aren't just the future; they're already part of today's reality. And they offer new opportunities for our industry, including here in Europe. It's good for the environment, and it helps protect our jobs.
How would you describe your job?
Mohamed: It's a technical and very versatile job. You work with machines, but at the same time you're constantly learning about materials, machine settings, and production processes. You must be able to switch quickly and work precisely.
What makes it extra nice is that we work a lot with other departments. The mechanics, for example, or the colleagues who carry out the tests. And there is a good atmosphere among colleagues. That makes you come to work every day with motivation and pride.
ESG News | July, 4th 2025