European Spinning Group
ESG News | March, 10th 2025

Sustainable pillars within the EU BAT-Guidelines

The ​Best Available Techniques (BAT)​ for the textile industry emphasize the importance of environmentally friendly production methods. Natural fibers such as hemp, flax, and wool align perfectly with these principles.
These raw materials not only have a lower ecological footprint but also make it easier to comply with stricter emission and waste management regulations.
✅ Less impact, more value: These fibers require less water, pesticides, and chemicals compared to cotton and synthetic alternatives.
✅ BAT sustainability benefits: Biodegradable and recyclable.
✅ Local value chains: Shorter supply chains mean less transport, lower CO₂ emissions, and economic benefits for local farmers.

Hemp, flax, and wool, as natural fibers, offer unique advantages and challenges in terms of environmental performance and production processes.

1. Sustainability benefits of flax, hemp, and wool

These fibers align well with the BAT (Best Available Techniques) approach due to their sustainable properties:
Flax and hemp:
  • Locally grown raw materials ensure a shorter supply chain, less transportation, and lower CO2 emissions.
  • Require little water and pesticides during cultivation, unlike cotton.
  • Biodegradable and recyclable, contributing to a circular economy.
  • Naturally strong, reducing the need for chemical treatments.
Wool:
  • Renewable and biodegradable.
  • Has natural antibacterial properties, reducing the need for chemical post-treatment.
  • Wool grease (lanolin) can be recovered and reused.

2. Relevant BAT principles and benefits for these fibers

The BAT conclusions provide guidelines that are beneficial for processing these fibers:
  • Water and energy management
  • Flax and hemp can often be processed without intensive chemical pre-treatment, reducing water and energy consumption.
  • Mechanical dewatering and heat recovery (BAT 13a, 11g-j) can help save energy in wool processing, especially during washing and drying.
  • Water recycling (BAT 10i-j) can significantly reduce water consumption in wool cleaning.

Reduction of chemical use
  • Using less harmful process chemicals (BAT 14, 5a-b) is easier with natural fibers, which inherently contain fewer impurities.
  • Hemp and flax require fewer chemical treatments compared to synthetic fibers.
  • Limited need for strengthening and finishing (BAT 5b), as these fibers are often naturally strong enough.

Waste management and reuse
  • Wool grease recovery (BAT 10j): Wool grease from the washing process can be reused in cosmetics or pharmaceutical applications.
  • Textile waste reuse (BAT 29): Cutting waste and fiber remnants can be repurposed into yarns.

Conclusion

The use of flax, hemp, and wool aligns well with the BAT conclusions as these fibers are naturally more environmentally friendly.
By combining these materials with recommended techniques for water, energy, and chemical management, manufacturers can further reduce their ecological footprint and meet the stricter environmental requirements within the textile industry.
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